Deep conditioning should be used as a restorative treatment to repair dry hair or damaged hair. The main differences between a regular conditioner and a deep conditioner are that regular conditioners use agents that will soften the hair and allow water to saturate and stay in the hair shaft, basically conditioning the surface of the hair strands. Deep conditioners contain ingredients that penetrate and allow your hair to be conditioned within the strand as well as the surface layer.

The type of conditioning treatment and how it's used is very important for the best results. Specifically, I'm referring to Protein and Moisture Treatments. We've covered the Absolute Importance of Protein- Moisture Balance and we've also discussed Hair Porosity and the types of conditioning that works best. Let's go a little deeper into the two types of treatments.

Protein Treatments

Protein treatments are best used with dry heat, such as a hooded dryer. This drying allows the resin and the protein molecules in treatments to bind to the hair. This is important because the protein molecules fortify the hair by filling in the missing cuticles and the spaces between the hair's broken protein bonds. Protein products cannot permanently repair hair. They temporarily "repair" hair and fill in missing pieces of a strand. This helps to strengthen strands and makes the hair appear shinier or have more sheen because the hair strand has what appears to be a healthy cuticle layer that better captures and reflects light. Cuticles are important for shine and sheen. Try to use protein conditioners on clean hair that has been washed. This will allow the protein to have the greatest access to the spaces and places on the hair strand that need protein the most. Types of protein ingredients to look for in products are silk, collagen, and keratin. Non animal or plant or vegetable-based types of protein are wheat, pea, and soy-based proteins.

Important Note: Always follow a protein treatment with a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment to restore elasticity to the strands. Protein tends to make the strand strong and inflexible. Therefore, the hair is at risk of breakage or snapping with any manipulation from styling or handling. Remember, your hair needs protein-moisture balance.

Moisturizing Treatments

Moisture is water. Therefore, moisturizing treatments are water=based and will usually have water as the very first ingredient on the ingredients list. Water, panthenol and natural oil are great ingredients to look for in a moisture-based product. You can add these ingredient to enhance your store bought conditioner but, remember to  only add the ingredients to what you are going to use that day. Adding a liquid to a store-bought conditioner that will sit for days may destabilize or contaminate your product.

Unlike protein products that function to bind the hair, moisture-based products are made to penetrate the hair. To help these moisture-based products work at an optimum level on your hair, you may want to use them with steam or wet heat. Moisture-based products help the hair to be soft, pliable and flexible. Softened cuticles and hair strands tend to bend and move as opposed to break away from the hair strand. Unfortunately, there is no magic ratio for protein and moisture. Each head of hair is different and every situation is different. You really must perform a bit of trial and error to find your protein- moisture balance for your head of hair.